It’s about a 25 minute walk from here to our next destination, Zuihoden, the opulent mausoleum of Date Masamune, built in 1637. Like Sendai Castle, Zuihoden was burned during the bombing of Sendai, but was rebuilt in 1979 and further restored in 2001.
I notice lots of visitors are here today as we walk up the 387-year-old stone steps. Though the afternoon is beginning to heat up, it’s refreshingly cool under the shade of the towering cedars that grow here. Many of them look as if they pre-exist the stone steps, which would make them close to 400 years old *11.
Zuihoden is part of Kyogamine Historical Park, which includes the mausoleums of several of Date Masamune’s descendants as well as other monuments. Kyogamine, Kanno tells me, was regarded as a highly spiritual place long before Date Masamune’s time. The name refers to sutra (kyoten), which were buried in sutra mounds (kyozuka) here hundreds of years earlier. Sutra mounds are archeological sites containing handwritten sutras buried to ensure that, in case of times of unrest, they would be safely passed on to future generations.
As I stand in front of Zuihoden, admiring its spectacular black lacquer, gold leaf, and ornate wood carvings, Kanno tells me something fascinating about the ground on which it stands *12. Date Masamune came to Kyogamine about one month before his death to choose a spot in which to be buried. At first, he
wanted to be close to the cliff overlooking the Hirose River, but on second thought, changed his choice to a location with more stable ground. That location is where Zuihoden now stands. Construction began. To the astonishment of everyone, it was soon discovered that the body of a bearded pilgrim wearing beads and robes was already buried there. According to the local elders, this was the body of Mankai Shonin, a wellknown mountain ascetic monk who was revered like a saint. Mankai Shonin was said to also have had only one eye, like Date Masamune. This was seen as a sign that Date Masamune had been his reincarnation. A stone memorial to Mankai Shonin was rebuilt and can be seen on the right, between Zuihoden’s Nirvana Gate and the mausoleum building.
Date Masamune was buried facing east, towards his domain with the castle behind him. His mausoleum, Zuihoden, with its dynamic Momoyama architectural style, was designated a National Treasure in 1931. I’m in awe of the team who rebuilt and restored it and the other mausoleums here. Thanks to a lot of hard work and skilled craftsmanship, the beauty of these historic buildings can still be enjoyed in the peaceful
nature of Kyogamine.
Exploring Sendai Castle and Zuihoden with the excellent guidance of Masamichi Kanno has really allowed me to experience the history grounded in these sites. As Kanno has shown me, even though some things no longer physically remain, there are many clues to what they were like long ago. This walking route is definitely one I want to share the next time my overseas friends and family visit Sendai.
Site of Sendai Castle
1 Kawauchi, Aoba-ku, Sendai
Open 24hours Free
Zuihoden
23-2,Otamaya-shita,Aoba-ku,Sendai
TEL 022-262-6250 www.zuihoden.com
570yen (Adults.College students)
