I’ve brought my walking shoes for today’s special experience, guided by Masamichi Kanno, a local historian very familiar with Sendai Castle. I’m looking forward to hiking up the castle site. We begin at Aobayama Park in front of the Sendai Ryokusaikan Visitor Center and head towards the walking path just south of the Sendai City Museum. The path is lined with cherry trees on one side, and the long Naganuma Pond on the other *1 . Just as I’m admiring the pond’s tranquil surface, Kanno points out what I haven’t realized.
This is the moat of Sendai Castle, dug more than 420 years ago. My perspective shifts in an instant. I’m not out for a stroll. I’m approaching the securely-guarded fortress of Date Masamune.
The moat path makes a sharp turn and continues into a forested area where the ascent to the castle begins. Here, above the moat, stood Tatsumimon Gate, the first of four gates which would have had to have been passed through before reaching the main castle compound. At the time of its construction, this was the main entrance to the castle. Like its other buildings, this gate was burned in the bombing of Sendai during WWII, but the man-made earthworks, which were strategically built here, remain. Kanno smiles and climbs uphill to gain the upper hand, aiming an imaginary bow and arrow at me. Even though it’s in jest, I feel a brief pang of fear when I realize how easily I’d be struck down. For the first time, I’m seeing Sendai Castle in the context of a potential attack, which was a very real possibility during the Sengoku period when it was built.
We continue into the forested area. This was Sendai Castle’s third compound, now occupied in part by the Sendai City Museum. This important compound included not only the residence of Date Masamune, but also (within stumbling distance) a sake brewery built at his special request. Kanno directs my attention to the mountainside where fresh water is trickling out of the earth *2 , suggesting that it was likely the reason to build the brewery here. There are no other Japanese castles known to have had sake breweries within their grounds, making Sendai Castle an exception. It’s not so surprising though, since it’s well known that Sendai’s founder deeply appreciated sake.
Next comes the climb to the main compound *3 . The zigzagging path is steep but the trees above provide ample shade, and when I look back over the path I understand its defensive design *4 . There were several other gates along this path as well, making it impossible for me to imagine an enemy successfully gaining entry had the castle ever been besieged.
Before long, we reach the magnificent stone walls of Sendai Castle’s main compound, standing at a height of up to 17 meters. Right away, Kanno directs my attention to their corners, which are tapered almost like the ridge of a sword *5 .
He then passionately tells me about the craftsmanship of the blocks, which were hewn from stone from Mount Banzan in Kunimi, moved with huge wooden sleds, and shaped by hand with chisels and hammers *6 . While most of them have rectangular faces, you can find the odd hexagonal one as well, which Kanno tells me is a sign of the builders “playing around with the technique.” The walls have been damaged in earthquakes several times since they were built, and if you look carefully, you can spot the replacement stones.
Now we’re at the site of Sendai Castle’s main compound. This is where most people begin their visit, but I’m glad to have taken the less-traveled path. At our leisurely pace, it’s taken roughly an hour. It’s not even noon, but there are already plenty of sightseers here, some having picnics while enjoying the spectacular view, which stretches from Mount Izumigatake all the way to Kinkasan Island.
Many castles were built in the mountains during the Sengoku period, but Sendai Castle was built on a particularly large man-made plateau. This vast, flat area housed the main compound and its many buildings, which were used to administer clan affairs and receive dignitaries *7 . The Ohiroma, or main hall, which visitors can tour by VR, beautifully blended a traditional Muromachi period layout with an Edo period interior contemporary to the time. Next to it was a noh theatre, where, as per the traditions of the clan, performances were given after ceremonies. Noh, which was very popular in Sendai those times, was an important part of Date Clan hospitality. Another remarkable building here was a hanging structure that was partially built right into the side of the cliff, an architectural style known as kakezukuri *8 . This, Kanno tells me, was the afterparty spot. What a venue!
Next, Kanno directs my attention to the iconic bronze statue of Date Masamune on horseback. From the front, Sendai’s founder, dressed in armor, looks out into the distance as if surveying his domain. “Have you ever looked at the back of the statue?” Kanno asks, gesturing to me to go around it.
“Look to the right. The sculptor, Toru Komuro, designed the statue with Masamune holding a closed fan near his right hip. This is said to represent him surveying his territory not as a military commander―a role which he occupied for only about 10 years―but as a cultured ruler who watched over a peaceful domain for more than triple that amount of time *9 .”
Most people visit only this main compound when they come to Sendai Castle, but our path continues onward. We head north at a comfortable pace, back down the mountain towards the castle’s only reconstructed structures, Yagura Watchtower (Waki-yagura), and the Otemon Gate North Earthen
Wall *10 . Yagura Watchtower guarded the back entrance to the main compound and was reconstructed roughly 60 years ago. The reconstruction gives a sense of what Sendai Castle looked like, and is definitely worth the walk. There was once also a large castle gate here called Otemon Gate. Plans for its reconstruction have been announced, and it is expected to be completed in 2036.
Heading east, we come to Goshikinuma Pond. Just like Naganuma Pond, Goshikinuma Pond was part of the castle’s moat, originally built to defend against attackers. 300 years later, foreigners living in Sendai are said to have popularized ice skating here, and a signboard marks it as the birthplace of figure skating in Japan.
A few more steps and we’ve returned to the Sendai Ryokusaikan Visitor Center and this morning’s starting point.
